Sewing-machine.



I. E. FLETCHER & W. J. MAcLEAN.

SEWING MACHINE.

APBLIOATION FILED 11411.31, 1905.

Patented Feb. 13, 1912.

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IRA E. FLETCHER ANl) \VILLIAM J. MACLEAN, OF BROCKTON. MASSACHUSETTS, AS-

SIGNORS T UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY,

A COEPGRATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed March 31, 1905.

Iatented Feb, 13, 191

Serial No. 253,089.

Massachusetts, have invented an Improve-- ment in Sewing-Machines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on the drawings representing like parts.

()ur invention consists irr improvements in sewing machines, and while susceptible of more extensive application, is particularly intended for sole stitching machines which are employed for stitching the outer sole of a boot or shoe to the well: thereof.

In stitching the sole to the welt the practice is frequently followed 0fv sinking the stitches beneath or flush with the surface of the welt, as by permitting the stitch loops to be drawn into aslitor channel, the lip of which partially or wholly conceals the stitching from View. Such a slit or channel is formed by causing the face of the welt, as the sh e is moved along the work rest to meet a stationary blade or-cutting tool in advance of but n the pathof the stitching mechanism, so t at the subsequently. formed stitch is drawn into the slitthus formed. This practice of sinking the stitches into the welt is carried out about the fore part or sole extension without materially-affecting the strength of the stitching, but if that mode of stitching is employed in and about the shank of the shoe, it has been found that the cutting of the required slit or channel tt'oi the reception of the stitches in the relatively thin welt, so weakens the material beneaththeloops that at this shank portion where the stitching is required to withstand the greatest strains, the shoe,is materially To avoid this objection, it has been customary to stitch a shoe about the sole extension upon one machine provided with a cutting tool of the characterreferred to and thus provide the sunken stitches, and then transfer the shoe to a second machine without such cutting tool for the stitching of the shank, so that the latter when stitched may have the thread loops drawn down upon the unbroken surface of the leather and thereby to secure the full available strength thereof.

Our invention, in the specific embodiment thereof here illustrated, provides means for stitching the outer sole to the welt upon a single machine and by a single. uninterrupt ed operation, while permitting the thread loops in certain parts of the stitch path, as, for example, around the extension sole, to be drawn into a previously formed slit or channel and thereby rendered wholly or partially invisible but permitting the thread loops at other parts of the stitch path, as, for example, in the shank portion of the shoe, to be drawn down upon the unbroken surface of the leather, as is usual. This is accomplished in the described embodiment of my invention, by causing the slit or channel forming means to be thrown into opera tive engagement with the leather when the sinking of the stitching is desired, as about the sole extension, and to be withdrawn from such operatlve engagement when the sinking of the/stitches is no longer desired,

as aboutthe shank portion.

In=the ordinary types of sole sewing machines "mechanism is customarily provided for gaging the'distance of the stitch from the edge of the sole and for: lengthening or shortening the stitch, so that the connecting stitches between the sole and welt shall be at a uniform distance from the edge of the sole about the fore part or sole extension, while along the shank portion the stitches shall lie farther from the edge of the sole and have an increased length.

The described embodiment of our inven tion also comprchends connections between the slit forming means and the thread gaging mechanism, whereby a change in the position of the stitching relatively to the edge of the sole, as it passes from the shank portion to the fore part, or the change in the length of stitch, or both, will be accompanied by movement of the slit forming means to a position of engagement with the larly pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings,i?igure 1 is a plan view of a portion of a sole sewing machine emb dy1ng our invention; Fig. 2 IS a side clevation of the parts shown in Fig. 1; Fig.

is a front elevation ot the, work rest edge, guide and awl carrier shown in Fig.1; Figs. 4 andfi show in plan and front elevation re specti'vely on an enlarged scale the details of the work rest and edge guide with the slit forming device swung out of its effective position; Figs. 6 and 7 show sirniar views to Figs. i and 5, respectively, with a slit forming device swung into its active or slit forming position and Fig. 8 is a side elevation of the parts as shown in Fig. 4.

Our invention may be applied to any suitable form of sole sewing machihe. and the functions thereof may be performed in a great variety of ways: but to illustrate in detail one embodiment of our invention we have shown the same as applied to a well known form of sole sewing machine of the type illustrated in Patent No. 503.47g dated July T, 1896. in a. machine of this character the shoe is presented to the machine with the solo uppermost and the welt resting on the work rest ('1. along the upper horizontal face of which it is fed to bring the face of the welt within the path ot suitable stitching mechanism. As illustrative of the stitching mechanism l have shown the curved awl 7) and the awl sector I). in the l'wsitio'n which they occupy relatively to the work rest (I, lurthcr illustration of remain ing details of this well-known stitch tormiug mechanism being unnecessary to an understanding of the present invention. The work rest a is provided with the usual slot through which the awl and needle work.

As the shoe is fed along the work rest, during the stitching of the sole extension or tore part, its position thereon and the distance of the stitching From the sole edge is regulated by the edge rest 0, the face of which contacts with the outer edge of the sole and acts to locate the stitch with reterem-e thereto. The edge rest a, as is listed in this class of l'nachines is carried upon a suitable slide. which may he moved by the lever r7. pivoted at 1/ to withdraw the edge.

rest rcarwardly away from the sole edge and away 't'rom the position shown in Fig. 1 or may be moved to cause it again to assume that position. \Vhen the edge rest is withdrawn from the position shown in Fig. 1 to some such position as is shown in Fig. 4-,

which latter position is assumed during the stitc ing around the shank portion of the shoe; the outer edge a of the work, rest enters the crease of the shank and guides the boot or shoe in its travel along the rest there to properly position the stitches in the welt.

Rearward movement of the lever (Z and withdrawal of the edge rest 0 is etiected when the shank portion leaves the work rest and the extension sole passes thereon, and this is ordinarily performed by the operator who throws the lever 11, the said lever also acting througl'i the handle 0 and its arm 0" engaging the grooved stud a the latter secured to the awl support If. to move the latter and the attached awl laterally and thereby shortenthe stitches about the fore part; of the shoe., This mechanism is wellknown and requires no further description.

Referring now more particularly to Figs. 4 to 8: during the stitchingaif the sole ere tension, the taco of the welt as it travels over the work rest a. and prior to its engagement by the stitch forming mechanism, is caused to meet an appropriate slit. or channel forne ing device. which herein consists of the swinging blade carrier f, pivotally mounted in the. slot in the work rest a and having the blade f herein shaped to cut a compara.- lively thin, shallow slit or channel, into which the subsequently formed stitches are drawn. During stitching of the extension sole, the blade is held fixedly in its slit forming position shown in Figs. 6 and 7 by the projecting finger c. which projects from the supporting arm of the edge rest outwardly and beneath the face of the work rest a to engage the heel f of the swinging pivoted blade carrier.

The slit forming blade is held in its slit forming position. shown in Fig. 7. during the stitching ot the fore part. and after the stitch loops are drawn down into the channel thus produced. the pressure of the raised lips a upon the work rest, as the shoe is traversed, assisted by the tension of the thread. acts to lay down'the lips or edges of the slit over upon the inserted thread loops.

When the tore part of the shoe'has been stitched and the operator passes to the shank, hesimultaneously throws the handle I to lengthen the stitch and withdraw the edge rest. The withdrawal of the edge rest also withdraws the linger c from engagement with the heel f of the blade carrier, so that the latter having no longer any support against the downward pressure of theleather upon the blade f, swings back into the position shown in Figs. 4, 5, and 8, where the blade lies within the slot of the work rest and below the plane of the su tace thereof. In this position the-blade being no longer effective for cutting the advance slot, the

stitches or loops are drawn down upon the uncut surface of the leather and will so cont-inue to be formed until the operator again moves the edge restforward and causes the engaging finger c thereon to throw the blade above the surface of the rest and into a position effective for cutting the necessary.

invention -is not limited to the mere details which are shown for illustrative purposes to its application to any particular type of machine or for any particular purpose, but that many modifications in the same may be made and various applications thereof uti-. lized without departing from its spirit Claimsy 1. A solesewing machine, having means for stitching the, outer sole to the welt work feeding means and means for forming a channel in the welt acting on the welt, in advance of the stitching means in line with the seam and movable into and outof engagement with the welt during the continued operation of the work feedingand stitching means whereby the stitches may be sunk into the well; for a portion of the stitch path only.

2.- A sole sewing machine, having means for stitching the outer sole to the welt work feeding means and means for forming a channel in the welt acting on the welt in advance of the stitching means in line with the seam and. movable into and out of engagement with the welt during the continued operation of the work feeding and stitching means whereby the stitches may be sunk into the welt about the forepart of a shoe and drawn down upon the unbroken'surface of the welt about the shank portion thereof. 3. In a sole sewing machine the combination with stitching mechanism,'means acting in advance of said stitching mechanism to form a slit or channel in-the leather, and means for throwing said slit forming means in and out of engagement with the leather permitting a continued operation of the machine in sewing a seam.

4. In a sole sewing machine the combination with stitching mechanism of means for gaging the distance of the stitch from the edge of the sole, means acting in advance of said stitching mechanism for forming a slit in the leather and means for throwing said slit forming mechanism into or out of engagement upon change in said gaging acting in advance of the stitching mecha-' nism for forming a slit in the face of the leather, and means for throwing said slit forming mcchanisn'i into and out of engagement upon change in said stitch changing mechanism.

(i. in a sole sewing machincihe combination with a work rest, a sole edge guide a cutting tool forming a slit in the leather traversing said work rest and means Whereby the cutting tool is controlled iuposition by said edge guide.

7. The combination with a sole sewing machine of a'slit forming member acting in advance of the stitching mechanism and movable from an operative to an inoperative positionyduring the operation of sewing a seam.

8. In a leather sewing machine, the combination with a work rest and stitching mechanism, of a cutting member pivoted to said work rest' in advance of the path of the stitching mechanism and movable aboutits pivot during the operation ofsewing a position. o

9. In a leather sewing machine the combination with stitching mechanism, of a movable channel cutting member adapted to act in advance of the stitching mechanism in line with the seam to cut a channel to receive the stitches, and means for throwing said cutting member into and out of operation permitting a continued operation of the 'nachine in sewing a'seam.

10. In a" eather sewing machine the comseam from an operative to an inoperative &

bination with stitching mechanism, of

slotted work rest and ablade carrying mem-' ber pivotally mounted in the slot thereof and movable about its pivot to throw the blade into'and out of operation.

. 1l.-In:a leather sewing machine the combination with stitching mechanism, of a slotted work rest, a blade carrying member I pivoted in the slot thereof and having 21 depending portion, and means for engaging with said dependingportion to throw the blade of said blade'carrying member above the face of the work rest. v

12. In a leather sewing machine the combination with stitching mechanism, of cut-, ting means for cutting a slit in advance of the stitch, said cutting means beingadapted normally tobe held in an inoperative position by contact'with the leather, and means for throwing said cutting means into an operative position. V

13. A shoe-stitching machine, having, in combination with-the stitching instrumentalities, a knife for cutting a channel in the well; of a shoe in advance of the'operation.

of the stitching instrumentalities, and means for throwing the knife into and out of operative'engagement with the. welt during the continued operation of the'machine in sewing a seam.

' 14. A shoe stitching machine, having, in combination With the stitching instrumentalities, a knife movable into and out of operative position for cutting a channel in the Welt of a shoe in advance of the opera tion of the stitching instrumentalities, and means for moving the knife into operative position during the continued operation of the machine in sewing a seam.

15. A shoe stitching machine, having, in combination, with the stitching instrumentaiities a Work support provided with a surface to receive the Welt of a shoe, a knife for cutting a channel in the Welt in advance of the o )erntion of the stitching instrumentniities. and means for projecting the knife above the welt supporting surface of the Work support during the operation of the machine.

"316. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, with the stitching instrumentalities, a Work support, a knife mounted on saldsupport and movable thereon into and out-of operative position for cutting a channel in the Welt of a shoe in advance of the operation of the stitching instrumentalities and means for moving the knife into opera tive position during the operation. of the machine.

In testimony whereof, we have signed our names to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

IRA E. FLETCHER WILLIAM J. M GLEAN. Witnesses:

Fnnnnnion L. EMERY, ROBERT H. KAMMLER. 

